Faye Toogood and Birkenstock launch capsule assortment of customized Arizona sandals, cozy clothes and a surprising sculptural mattress – SURFACE
The collaboration continues Birkenstock’s overtures to luxurious trend and offers the British designer the possibility to place her mark on a childhood staple.
By Gabrielle Golenda
April 3, 2021
Birkenstocks have grow to be much more wearable than ever because the pandemic-induced quarantine, when the distant workforce enthusiastically adopted the uniform of the house workplace: informal put on. But the household enterprise, based by shoemaker Johann Adam Birkenstock in 1774, retains one foot within the high fashion pool the place earlier collaborations with Proenza Schouler and Rick Owens have confirmed profitable. For its most up-to-date partnership, Birkenstock has partnered with the multidisciplinary design agency Too good on a sculptural mattress fabricated from the identical supplies – cork, leather-based and canvas – because the German model’s sandals, three new types for the enduring Arizona sandal, and a relaxed ready-to-wear assortment in colours like stone, chalk and darker- toned flint. Birkenstock x Toogood is every part you think about, a cohesive assortment designed with one unifying purpose: consolation.
Forward of in the present day’s launch, Floor sat down with Toogood founder Faye Toogood to speak in regards to the imaginative and prescient for the collaboration, her private historical past with the basic sandal model, and the affect of Puffy Chair. on his remix of Birkenstock.
Why are Toogood and Birkenstock a very good marriage?
Birkenstock matches in completely with Toogood as it’s unbiased of gender, age, and any type of cultural perspective. Birkenstock has good craftsmanship that has not modified. It’s a coherent and democratic model. Additionally, what I favored about their strategy was that they stated, “You are able to do no matter you need, we simply need to work with Toogood. We really feel that we share the identical values. ”
How did the collaboration begin? What was your start line?
They got here to the studio and noticed our design home, situated in east London. That is the place we create the supplies, furnishings and clothes. They’d watched what we have been doing and so they actually loved our strategy and the issues that matter to us: the democracy of what individuals put on and after they put on it. So we stated to ourselves: “Let’s make sneakers, but additionally a ready-to-wear assortment.”
How did the mattress get into the queue?
On the finish of the dialog, we additionally determined to design a mattress after listening to that Birkenstock made this really wonderful mattress. I wished to make a very nice mattress that had as a lot consideration as the only real of the sandal. You spend 12 hours of your day standing in your toes and the opposite 12 hours in your again. Birkenstock thinks of each
How does this strategy apply to creating sandals and mattresses?
I walked out of the dialog understanding what they might obtain by way of manufacturing. So we used the identical supplies, cork, for instance, is the bottom of the mattress, whereas the headboard makes use of their levers. The know-how is there in all places.
Designing garments, sneakers and a mattress is not any straightforward activity. How do you combine your imaginative and prescient of design by means of various kinds of objects?
We targeted on the concept of kind and sample. We have a tendency not to attract an excessive amount of, we frequently go on to fashions to develop the form. I began working with items of previous canvas, cardboard and duct tape to make these actually primary sandals that just about appeared like Roman sandals. They have been actually primary of their strategy, however we fairly shortly got here to a form a bit just like the Inflated chair I simply launched with a little bit of padding and quilting. I took the paper fashions to Germany and developed them right into a product. As soon as we received the shoe language it turned actually clear how the ready-to-wear assortment ought to reply.
Your imaginative and prescient of Birkenstocks is totally different from earlier collaborations. It appears utterly contemporary and appears like a Birkenstock sandal on the identical time.
I’ve determined that the insole is prohibited, nobody is allowed to the touch the footbed. Earlier collaborations have been both recolored or modified materials, however I wished to alter the patterns, the silhouette and create a distinct form. We took the quintessential fashions – Arizona and Zurich – and we really lower them out. They’re with out materials, and the contours, form and geometry are totally different from the originals.
Did you encounter any challenges alongside the best way?
The largest problem was to attain the padded quilted impact. It is not one thing they’ve finished earlier than. They’re used to working with seamless, very wear-resistant supplies. I wished to make canvas sneakers so we needed to examine all of the seams. After I introduced within the quilting, it was one thing they hadn’t labored on earlier than, so at occasions we hit the bounds of producing. There was nothing that was not achieved in the long run. I really like trying on the unique mockups after which the ultimate items, you possibly can see little or no distinction between the 2.
Whether or not it is a shoe or a mattress, what makes a very good design?
I am all the time looking out for that type of magic that makes your product not solely related, purposeful, or fascinating, however one thing that appeals to individuals. I really feel that I’ve achieved this with the Roly-Poly chair, one thing that may be present in design museums around the globe. It’s in lots of houses everywhere in the world. There’s something magical about this chair. You may’t all the time put your finger on it. It is not about designing an ergonomic chair, it is about designing and creating an object that folks hook up with in an emotional manner that brings pleasure – one thing totally different of their lives that they love. have round them.
I simply launched a set of ceramic housewares. I work on it after which I’ve a little bit of a ardour for jewellery.